La conspiración del azúcar (parte I)

jorge carlos fernandez frances el sardinero
Jorge Carlos Fernández Francés El Sardinero

En 1972, un científico británico dio la alarma de que el azúcar, y no la grasa, era el mayor peligro para nuestra salud. Pero sus hallazgos fueron ridiculizados y su reputación arruinada. ¿Cómo es que los mejores científicos en nutrición del mundo se equivocaron tanto durante tanto tiempo?
Robert Lustig es un endocrinólogo pediátrico de la Universidad de California que se especializa en el tratamiento de la obesidad infantil. Una charla de 90 minutos que dio en 2009, titulada Sugar: The Bitter Truth, ha sido vista más de seis millones de veces en YouTube. En él, Lustig argumenta enérgicamente que la fructosa, una forma de azúcar omnipresente en las dietas modernas, es un «veneno» culpable de la epidemia de obesidad en Estados Unidos.
Más o menos un año antes de que se publicara el video, Lustig dio una charla similar en una conferencia de bioquímicos en Adelaide, Australia. Posteriormente, un científico de la audiencia se le acercó. Seguramente, dijo el hombre, has leído a Yudkin. Lustig negó con la cabeza. John Yudkin, dijo el científico, era un profesor británico de nutrición que había hecho sonar la alarma sobre el azúcar en 1972, en un libro llamado Pure, White, and Deadly.
«Si solo se revelara una pequeña fracción de lo que sabemos sobre los efectos del azúcar en relación con cualquier otro material utilizado como aditivo alimentario», escribió Yudkin, «ese material se prohibiría de inmediato». El libro funcionó bien, pero Yudkin pagó un alto precio por él. Nutricionistas prominentes se combinaron con la industria alimentaria para destruir su reputación, y su carrera nunca se recuperó. Murió, en 1995, un hombre decepcionado y en gran parte olvidado.
Quizás el científico australiano pretendía una advertencia amistosa. Sin duda, Lustig estaba poniendo en riesgo su reputación académica cuando se embarcó en una campaña de alto perfil contra el azúcar. Pero, a diferencia de Yudkin, Lustig está respaldado por un viento predominante. Casi todas las semanas leemos nuevas investigaciones sobre los efectos nocivos del azúcar en nuestros cuerpos. En los EE. UU., La última edición de las pautas dietéticas oficiales del gobierno incluye un límite en el consumo de azúcar. En el Reino Unido, el canciller George Osborne ha anunciado un nuevo impuesto sobre las bebidas azucaradas. El azúcar se ha convertido en el enemigo número uno de la dieta.
Esto representa un cambio dramático en la prioridad. Durante al menos las últimas tres décadas, el archienemigo de la dieta ha sido la grasa saturada. Cuando Yudkin estaba realizando su investigación sobre los efectos del azúcar, en la década de 1960, una nueva ortodoxia nutricional estaba en proceso de afirmarse. Su principio central era que una dieta saludable es una dieta baja en grasas. Yudkin lideró un grupo cada vez menor de disidentes que creían que el azúcar, no la grasa, era la causa más probable de enfermedades como la obesidad, las enfermedades cardíacas y la diabetes. Pero cuando escribió su libro, los defensores de la hipótesis de la gordura se habían apoderado de las alturas dominantes del campo. Yudkin se encontró luchando en una acción de retaguardia y fue derrotado.
No solo derrotado, de hecho, sino enterrado. Cuando Lustig regresó a California, buscó Pure, White and Deadly en las librerías y en línea, sin éxito. Finalmente, encontró una copia después de enviar una solicitud a la biblioteca de su universidad. Al leer la introducción de Yudkin, sintió un impacto de reconocimiento.
«Mierda», pensó Lustig. «Este tipo llegó 35 años antes que yo».
En 1980, después de una larga consulta con algunos de los científicos en nutrición más importantes de Estados Unidos, el gobierno de los Estados Unidos emitió sus primeras Guías Alimentarias. Las pautas dieron forma a las dietas de cientos de millones de personas. Los médicos basan sus consejos en ellos, las empresas alimentarias desarrollan productos para cumplirlos. Su influencia se extiende más allá de Estados Unidos. En 1983, el gobierno del Reino Unido emitió un consejo que siguió de cerca el ejemplo estadounidense.
La recomendación más destacada de ambos gobiernos fue reducir las grasas saturadas y el colesterol (esta fue la primera vez que se aconsejó al público que comiera menos de algo, en lugar de lo suficiente de todo). Los consumidores obedecieron diligentemente. Reemplazamos el bistec y las salchichas con pasta y arroz, la mantequilla con margarina y aceites vegetales, los huevos con muesli y la leche con leche descremada o jugo de naranja. Pero en lugar de volvernos más saludables, engordamos y enfermamos.
En los Estados Unidos, la línea se eleva muy gradualmente hasta que, a principios de la década de 1980, despega como un avión. Solo el 12% de los estadounidenses eran obesos en 1950, el 15% en 1980, el 35% en 2000. En el Reino Unido, la línea es plana durante décadas hasta mediados de la década de 1980, momento en el que también gira hacia el cielo. Sólo el 6% de los británicos eran obesos en 1980. En los siguientes 20 años, esa cifra se triplicó con creces. Hoy en día, dos tercios de los británicos son obesos o tienen sobrepeso, lo que lo convierte en el país más gordo de la UE. La diabetes tipo 2, estrechamente relacionada con la obesidad, ha aumentado a la par en ambos países.
En el mejor de los casos, podemos concluir que las directrices oficiales no lograron su objetivo; en el peor de los casos, llevaron a una catástrofe sanitaria que duró décadas. Entonces, naturalmente, se ha producido una búsqueda de culpables. Los científicos son figuras convencionalmente apolíticas, pero en estos días, los investigadores en nutrición escriben editoriales y libros que se asemejan a tratados de activistas liberales, llenos de justas denuncias de la “gran azúcar” y la comida rápida. Nadie podría haber predicho, se dice, cómo responderían los fabricantes de alimentos a la orden judicial contra la grasa, vendiéndonos yogures bajos en grasa con azúcar y pasteles infundidos con grasas trans que corroen el hígado.
Los científicos de la nutrición están enojados con la prensa por distorsionar sus hallazgos, los políticos por no prestarles atención y el resto de nosotros por comer en exceso y hacer poco ejercicio. En resumen, todos (empresas, medios de comunicación, políticos, consumidores) tienen la culpa. Todos, es decir, excepto los científicos.
Pero no era imposible prever que la difamación de la grasa podría ser un error. La energía de los alimentos nos llega de tres formas: grasas, carbohidratos y proteínas. Dado que la proporción de energía que obtenemos de las proteínas tiende a mantenerse estable, sea cual sea nuestra dieta, una dieta baja en grasas significa efectivamente una dieta alta en carbohidratos. El carbohidrato más versátil y sabroso es el azúcar, que John Yudkin ya había marcado con un círculo rojo. En 1974, la revista médica del Reino Unido, The Lancet, hizo sonar una advertencia sobre las posibles consecuencias de recomendar reducciones en la grasa de la dieta: «La cura no debería ser peor que la enfermedad».
Aún así, sería razonable suponer que Yudkin perdió este argumento simplemente porque, en 1980, se habían acumulado más pruebas contra la grasa que contra el azúcar.
Después de todo, así es como funciona la ciencia, ¿no?

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